Milford Track Guided Walk

The Milford Track (53.5km) is the most famous amongst the Great Walks in New Zealand, also know as the "The Finest Walk in the World"
Ian's dad wanted to walk the Milford Track for a long time. So we together with Ian's parents decided to walk it as part of a guided tour. This way we only had to carry our clothes while food and beds were provided. It was a really luxurious tour :-)

Day 1

The bus picked us up from Queenstown and drove us Te Anau for lunch and then further to Te Anau Down where we boarded the boat that took us to the start of the Milford Track.



It was only a short 1.6km walk to the first lodge - Glade House. From there we went on a nature walk that led us to a stream running down the mountains from where we had a great view. During this nature walk we also got to know our "little friends" who would follow us for the next week - sandflies!! They look like fruit flies but unlike them sandflies can bite your skin and make it itch for days!! Very annoying creatures!

When we came back from this walk some nibbles and dips were served and the bar was open :-) So we could "kill time" and wait for the 3 course dinner - vegetable soup, venison, apple strudel with vanilla ice cream *yum*

Every evening after dinner our guides presented a slide show with what to expect the next day - the course, what we are going to see, the next lodge, ... and a choice for next days dinner :-) On the first evening we also had to introduce ourselves. Out of the 42 people in our group the majority came from Australia and Japan followed by Europe and the rest of the world.

As we went to bed this evening there was absolute silence! Of course only until the snorers fell asleep ;-) But it was great to hear nothing at all!! No cars in the distance, no airplanes - nothing!

Day 2
The next morning we had to get up at 6.30am. As a very first thing we had to prepare lunch for the day - sandwiches, muesli bars, cookies,... Then we had a fried breakfast with bacon and eggs or cereals and porridge. We couldn't complain about the food at all! There was always heaps of yummy stuff!

On the first actual walking day we did a fairly easy and flat walk of about 16km. Only the very last kilometre was a bit tricky as we had to climb up to Pompolona Lodge. We walked through beech forest full of ferns and moos covered trees, wetlands, passed several water falls and walked through a U-shaped valley formed by glaciers. We stopped for lunch at Hirere Falls and the guides provided us with hot drinks and soup.

Throughout the walk we had 4 guides accompanying us. One in the very front, another one walked with the last walker in the back and 2 somewhere in the middle. But as everyone walked at their own pace it felt like we were walking alone with no one else around!

During this walk we saw ducks and goose, a weka, trout and of course keas! When we arrived at Pompolona Lodge we were welcomed with drinks and fresh scones with cream and jam *yum* All the lodges on the track can only be reached by foot or helicopter. This means that all the food and waste is flown in and out by helicopter and we saw quite a few during the walk. Electricity is generated by a huge diesel generator that operates from 6.15am until 10pm - which meant
going to bed at 10pm (lights are off) and getting up at 6.15am (noisy generator starts).

The heat that is produced by the generator is also directed into the drying room - heating it up to nearly 40°C. All our washing was dry within hours. For washing clothes they provided soap and a mangle like the one my grandma probably had when she was young :-)

Day 3

The next day we got up early again as it was probably the toughest but most beautiful part of the walk. Tough - because we climbed up to MacKinnon Pass and went down the emergency track on the other side (steeper than the normal track) and most beautiful - because the
landscape changed so quickly and I wouldn't be able to say which part was the most stunning. It was really just like in a fairy tale - sometimes to perfect to be real :-)


We walked through parts of rain forest, passed water falls, walked across bridges and along a lake, up rocky tracks and admired the view from the top. And we were so lucky with the weather. Usually it rains about 300 days a year as the track is close to the ocean (Fjord Land)
but we didn't had rain once!!
So after we climbed up the 11 + 5 zigzags up to MacKinnon Pass we had a absolutely stunning view! We also met a young Kea, a mountain parrot, that was happy to play with us. A day earlier Keas would open doors at Pompolona Lodge, trying to get in our rooms to search our backpacks for food or just destroy the whole room :-) They are really clever little birds.

Day 4

The last day of the walk was rather flat but it was the longest section we had to walk - 21km (a half marathon in one day). Again the weather was beautiful and we saw lots of birds, ducks, fan tails and again water falls. In fact we walked passed the worlds 5th largest water fall -
Sutherland Falls.

For me the most picturesk fall was Giants Gate. It looked just like you would imagine a water fall - a wide fall with a little lake in front where you could have a swim. The only downside was the water temperature, as the water came directly from the snowy mountain tops. But still Ian was brave enough to have a dip.

Just in time for the ferry we arrived at sandfly point the end of the Milford Track. Those little bastards, the sandflies, accompanied us the whole trip. They look and fly like fruit flies but their stings are worse than mosquito bites! They itch like hell and it takes at least a week for them to disappear.

That night we celebrated the end of the trip with a 'graduation ceremony' as well as Peters birthday (Ian's dad). We had lamb and salmon for diner and a birthday ice cream cake for dessert.

Day 5

On the last day we woke up with a great view of Milford Sound - directly in front of our hotel window. The weather was fantastic - clear blue sky, no clouds and sun shine. Again we were so lucky!! as most people see Milford Sound probably only covered in clouds.

We went on a cruise through the sound - which is actually a fjord - towards the ocean. It was really stunning as the cliffs to either side rise up to several 100 meters each side. We also saw seals sun bathing and catching fish under water.

On the way back to Queenstown we drove through Homer Tunnel to the Divide - the start of the Routeburn Track. The bus dropped the two of us of there so we could start our independent walk.